Thursday, 2 June 2011

It's been a long time coming

I guess it's possible for people to think we had given up. It's been well over a month since I last posted and although I am quick to blame dodgy Internet connections and a few extreme rush scenarios.. truth be told I have been slack because the time for the crossing was getting very close, and I wasn't sure we were going to do it.

But hey, you can guess by now where we are right? White sand, wonderful people, beautiful vegetation and wildlife.

BARBADOS!


Ok so quick re-cap...


Mr UPS did not deliver in GC so we went and bought a kindle wannabe, yet with a weather window fast closing we had to immediately dash off after – so no blog update sadly.

It took 10 days all up to reach Cape Verde. The journey was good – no problems with the boat, or our supplies but exceptionally glad we got the new E-Book (.

Mindelo on Sao Vincent island was a whole new experience. Rasta guys everywhere with long dreadlocks that hang to their waists, women carrying their washing effortlessly on top of their heads. We especially liked our dingy watcher; this little guy called Elton John. Yes seriously that was his name. I don't think he understood the wide grin on my face as I asked for the third time “ Did you say Elton John?”. The people there were fitness fanatics. The early evenings spent running up and down the beach and stopping to do sit ups, push ups and squats which are then followed by capoeria sessions on the sand.
Local Graffiti in Cape Verde

We spent a whole day provisioning for the crossing giving 'shop around' a whole new meaning. We had a vast amount of fruit and veg but meat there was sparse and mainly frozen so we only had enough for about 3-4 meals. A lot of hope was being placed on our fishing line.


We only stayed in Cape Verde for 3 days, knowing that we were cutting it fine for crossing. With our goal of sub 21 days it would mean arriving on the last day of May.

The Crossing

I have to admit it was a pretty uneventfully time. We were prepared for the worst but we only ever had a few pitter patters of rain (which was often a very welcome relief) and only maximum of 15 knots increase in wind. After about a week in the winds got exceptionally light and we dug out out Gennaker Sail to whizz down the waves in a beautiful flourish or primary colours.. its a pretty sail and gives you something more interesting to look at other that blue sea, blue sky!

We had a shark follow us for a few days, early mistaken for a dolphin and oh so glad i did not try to feed it, we didn't manage to catch a single fish (fail on the fishermen front) but were bombarded with shovel loads of mini flying fish decorating the deck every night.

We only had two problems the whole way:-
1) The alternator's voltage regulator failed and there were moments of 'oh dear lord we are going to have to hand sail the boat 24 hours a day for the rest of the way' (being at least 10 more days) but Jarvis proved how lucky we are he is a tinkerer once again when he conjured up a home made version with some lightbulbs he 'aquired' from other places.

Note to self: If it looks to good a deal to buy an alternator off ebay from a Chinese import.. it really it *lesson learned*

2) When the winds finally picked up on the second to last day and we tried to take down our sunshine sail, the pulley snapped off at the top of the mast and with some uber waves making an appearance we had to just roll it on its self and tie it down as best possible and hope it didn't break.

...and that's it. The full extent of Atlantic crossing excitement. Other than that our lives consisted of reading about a book a day, living around the excitement of each meal and, the best part, really taking our time to further get to know each other and if nothing else that part would have made it all worth while.
Drinking Champange at Sunset.. almost there!!

So 21 days later and as good as our word on time.. it was 'Land Ahoy' and everything from the past four months was suddenly worth it.

Now to the good stuff
First things first... as non eventful as the crossing was, after three weeks in a boat it was time for some Land Lubbing and after a quick clearing of customs, we landed in an Internet cafe, found a nearby apartment/hotel and have treated ourselves to two days of air con, showers, pool and amazingly comfy beds. The Irony, the place is called 'Pirate Inn' (http://piratesinnbarbados.com) and is nautical themed - Doh!


We have only had two days here so far and although with the intent of 'relax to the max' we have encountered a surprising amount of amazing things already with last night being the 'piece de resistance'. After a chilled day in the pool and down the beach we wandered down the boardwalk to 'Blakeys' bar. It sits propped up on hardstands and decking with stairs right down to the ocean. It was late by the time we ate and then we noticed random movement on the sand, we went to investigate to find 3 large female Letherback Turtles digging holes and preparing to lay eggs! It was unreal. We stood a meter away watching their legs kick back huge amounts of sand as they dug away. It took 20 minutes and a wonderful local girl told us all about the turtles, how they always come back to lay their eggs where they were born themselves, about the different kinds on the islands and how the conservation programme his is so strong. For me amazing doesn't quite cover it and I now cant wait to go to the local spots where you can snorkel with them.

The food is delicious and full of unique tastes.( Last nights hotpot dinner with Pork and Oxtail was done in Giuanan pepper hot sauce - YUM!! ) I have never met kinder, friendlier people and the laid back attitude is perfect.

In 4 days time Ben and Aimee (Jarvis' friends from Oz) will be arriving and we will get share all these beautiful things with them. Until then we will be settling into this new lifestyle and counting our lucky stars that we didn't give up.


It still shocks me how long term sailors name the Atlantic 'the pond' to reflect the lack of impact that crossing it has on them. Lots have done it 3, 4 times now. No big deal right? Well, it's be one hell of a long time getting here, from planning this trip almost 2 years ago now, to the sail and all the trials we have had to face, so to me 'pond' is not quite fitting, I think I'll stick to Ocean to reflect our travels to date, but would we do it all again to get here? ... HELL YEA!
Atlantic Sunset.. beautiful :)

Tia and Jarvis, Over and Out

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